Is it wrong of me to think of the docks at Harwich as one of my favourite places? To be more exact, it is waiting to board the Stena Line Ferry to the Hook of Holland that I enjoy rather than the docks themselves.
After spending a few days working out the most cost-effective way to get to Europe for the Cost of Touring Europe article, I couldn’t resist one last visit to Europe before the Keis Heated Jacket comes out of storage.
The roads through the Harz National Park and the 36 Hairpins on the B85 are the reason for the trip, but first, an enjoyable evening sleeping my way across the English Channel.
Harwich is a Pain
Despite my love for the Stena Line ferry, getting to Harwich can be a pain. I still rate it easier than the Channel Tunnel – which will naturally depend on where you live – but overall, it is an easier, if tedious, journey.
I’ve tried various routes based around the A134, and whereas the riding is more enjoyable, even at night, Harwich remains a long drag east from the majority of civilisation.
A lot of work has been done to the roads over the years to make the journey less boring, but given that docks tend to be near the sea … it is what it is. At least I’m not navigating the M20 lorry park.
Perhaps that is why I find the cabin on the Stena Line ferry so welcoming. A single cabin with a wider-than-usual bed and an upper bunk. Enough space for me and all the everyday motorcycling accessories to co-exist without falling over them every time I move.
Yet, it is that self-satisfied feeling that I’m not wasting time getting where I’m going that gives me the most pleasure. I’m using the time while sleeping to get where I’m going. It is preferable to waiting for a train.
And for the avoidance of any doubt – I chose this way across the Channel and paid the regular price for my ticket, and with my own money too.
Not a Road Test
Usually, by now, whatever bike we are road testing would have been mentioned several times, and whereas the privilege of being allowed to test motorcycles is never lost on us, there is nothing more satisfying than riding your own bike.
Mine is a Yamaha Tracer 9GT, bought with my own cash money, and I paid close to the list price too.
You often read a review of a bike that ends “the bike was so good I didn’t want to give it back”. Well, in my case, I gave the test bike back to Yamaha and went and bought my own.
Back then, the Tracer 9GT had only recently been released, so I had to be content with managing to talk a few quid off the price at my local dealer. There were not that many Tracers available, and what were, didn’t need any help getting sold.
Over the past fourteen months and 12,000 miles, I’ve tweaked the Tracer to the point where I can’t think of anything else I need to do to it.
It is set up exactly how I want it and is an absolute joy to ride. I’ve even managed to fix the crime against humanity of a seat, although this is the first multi-day trip I’ve taken on the Tracer since having it reshaped.
I try not to use the panniers as I find them frustrating. They might look good, but there is nothing better than a rectangle when it comes to packing.
This is why everything from an envelope to the box the Tracer came in is this shape.
Conversely, the expandable 32-42 litre SW-Motech Rackpack bag I’ve strapped across the rear seat is a rectangle and holds more than enough for the week I’m away. Neither does the SW-Motech Rackpack weigh 10 kilos empty.
Coffee to Go
All the bike-related stuff goes in the top box along with my money-saving Fire Maple X1 “Cooking System”. It seems this isn’t just a highly effective camping gas stove; According to their marketing department, it is a cooking system. Call it what you will – it boils water.
With a cup of fancy coffee running at around £3, I needed to drink 20 cups of road brew coffee to pay for the stove. After that, allowing for the ingredients and the gas, I’m saving around £2.50 every time I brew a coffee.
If I start to include cakes bought from the supermarket rather than the fancy coffee shop and the camping meals I’ve eaten, I paid for the stove in one trip.
Too much hassle? When I did the maths and realised I was spending £40-£50 a week on takeaway coffee and snacks when touring, I suddenly became motivated. Plus, there is something delightful about stopping for coffee where the view is stunning, rather than across a car park.
The Boring Bit
Having woken up in the Netherlands (Hook of Holland), the task of getting out of the built-up area around Rotterdam that stretches through Utrecht and east to Arnhem began.
It is 80 miles of boring motorway, but the views are not too bad, and it is the most effective way I’ve found of getting to the good bits. Take the exit after Arnhem onto the A348 for a few miles and then turn right onto the N317 at Doesburg, and the engaging roads begin.
One hundred and fifty miles later, having crossed the border with Germany, I’m in Paderborn for my first night stop.
The Interesting Bit
Thanks to the Dutch Lady and her English Husband that I met on the Stena Line Ferry, I discovered that the country is The Netherlands, and Holland is a district in The Netherlands.
In fact – and this is the interesting bit – there are two Hollands – North and South.
The district of North Holland is where the ferry arrives at Rotterdam, and South Holland is where the Hague is. Calling the Netherlands “Holland” is akin to calling England – Wiltshire.
A random fact I’ll grant you, but that is the joy that comes from meeting people when travelling.
Harz National Park
Tomorrow’s route – which you can download here – is a long loop to the southern side of the Harz National Park to ride what on the map looks like highly engaging tree-lined twisties.
What could possibly go wrong?
